|
TANKLESS
WATER HEATERS
Models & Prices
Tankless Water Heater Product Guide
Description / Specification
Tankless Water Heater Applications
Residential / Commercial
Tankless Water Heater Electrical Guide
Service Calculations
Tankless Water Heater Installation
Plumbing / Electrical
Tankless Water Heater Cost Comparisons
Reports / Listings
Tankless Water Heaters Service Guide
Remove / Repair
SEND
TO A FRIEND
|
|
PRE-SERVICE, TROUBLE SHOOTING CHECK
LIST
- Verify the heater is properly mounted vertical on
the wall or structure with the inlet and outlet fittings of the heater
on the top, pointed toward the ceiling or upwards.
- Verify water flow through the heater. Make sure
that any shut off valves to the heater (on the cold water inlet side)
are in the open position to allow water to fill the heater.
- Verify that the heater is plumbed properly. The
cold water pipe should be connected to the right inlet fitting and the
hot water pipe connected to the left outlet fitting.
- Check the plumbing connections thoroughly and the
heater for any signs of leaks.
- Verify a high flow rate fixture by using a 1 gallon
bucket and watch. Determine if the flow rate matches the specifications
of the Seisco model selected for the application.
- With the POWER TURNED OFF (must be confirmed with
a volt meter), check for any loose or disconnected control wires to
the control panel or to the individual components of the heater. Also,
verify the power wires connected to the control board lugs are tight.
If stranded wire is used, check that all strands are in the lug. Any
strands outside the lug may cause electrical shorts on the board with
other components.
- Verify all appropriate circuit breakers are turned
on and functioning properly.
- With the POWER TURNED ON, verify that there is power
in all circuits connected to the heater. Check the power lugs on the
control board to make sure there is 208 to 240 volts, AC across the
lugs labeled L1 & L2 for each circuit.
- Check for any diagnostic codes. There may be more
than one code. Refer to the Diagnostic Codes for interpretation
of the diagnostic code(s).
- Check for a tripped high limit switch located at
the top of the heating chamber. To identify, follow the brown wires
from the control board to the switch. Turn off the power to the heater
before resetting the switch. Note: Newer four chamber heaters will have
an auto reset limit switch. Generally, this will be the 160 degree F
switch located on the top right of the heater. The left limit switch
has a manual reset.
- At the control panel, check the position of the
thermostat knob setting. It may need to be adjusted to achieve the desired
temperature. The normal setting is about 3 o’clock position (should
provide about 120 degrees F). Turn clockwise to increase temperature,
counterclockwise to lower the temperature.
- Check for malfunctioning faucets or incorrectly
adjusted tempering, mixing or pressure sensitive valves downstream from
the heater. This can be checked by feeling the outlet pipe on the left
of the heater while the water is running. If it feels hot but the water
at the faucet is cold, then check the plumbing at the faucets for possible
adjustments or reversed lines.
- Check for the possibility of cold water lines that
might be accidentally connected to the hot water lines downstream from
the heater.
- Check for a non-functioning temperature sensor or
heating element. See the following Component
Testing and Trouble Shooting Tables for detailed
procedures.
|
|
|
